Thoughts on hot chocolate

• Henry Fountain reports in the New York Times that the first use of cacao beans was probably for an alcoholic drink:
  The ancient peoples of Mexico and Central America loved to drink chocolate. But their beverage was nothing like the modern one — it was a frothy, bitter brew of fermented, roasted and ground cacao seeds, often spiced with chile peppers, more like mole poblano than Swiss Miss.
  Which sounds pretty damn good to me. I like hot chocolate once in a while (and when I was on my lame 3 AM shift always had Milo or Ovaltine before retiring - helped me sleep), but the modern beverage can be rather lame. On the other hand, a chocolate drink with more character - spicy or bitter, something with character - would go down pretty well. Any recommendations?